Orkney: A First Encounter Through the Lens

Dean Allan, landscape photographer based in Scotland, UK.

Windswept Wonders...

“Discovering the Orkneys: My First Adventure in Scotland’s Island Gem”

As a professional photographer, I’m always searching for that elusive spark of inspiration—the kind that ignites creativity and stirs the soul. My recent journey to Orkney, a stunning archipelago off the northeastern coast of Scotland, proved to be a profound encounter, filled with breathtaking landscapes, rich history, and, most importantly, the warmth of its people. In this blog, I’ll share my experiences from this first visit, capturing not just the sights but the essence of Orkney through my lens.

The Journey Begins…

Orkney is a cluster of 70 plus islands located (although only 20 are inhabited)  just 10 miles off the northern coastline of Scotland. Separated from the mainland by the tidal currents of the Pentland Firth, Orkney has a history and Norse-influenced culture all of its own.

Only a part of Scotland since 1472, Orkney retains significant Norse influence chiefly in its place names and local dialect. Together with Shetland, Orkney is believed to have been a base for Viking raids on the British Isles for hundreds of years.

Yet Orkney’s history stretches much farther back in time, with recent archaeological discoveries suggesting human settlement 8,500 years ago.

Twenty of the islands are inhabited. At the heart of the archipelago lies the largest island, somewhat confusingly named Mainland. It’s here you’ll find the capital Kirkwall, the quaint coastal town of Stromness, and the handful of sites together making up the UNESCO World Heritage sites known as the Heart of Neolithic Orkney.

Driving off the ferry onto the shores of Orkney was like entering another world. The air was crisp, with a hint of salt and seaweed, a refreshing contrast to the hustle and bustle of daily life. I could hardly contain my excitement as I gazed at the rugged coastline that greeted me. The light was magical—soft and diffused, perfect for photography. As a professional photographer, I understand how crucial light is in capturing a moment, and Orkney offered an ever-changing canvas, from moody overcast skies to bursts of brilliant sunshine.

                                                  Dancing with the Weather...

Orkney’s weather can be unpredictable, and it proved to be both a challenge and an opportunity. The rain would come and go in waves, but each shift brought with it a different perspective. I learned to embrace the elements—clouds swirling dramatically above me, raindrops catching the light like diamonds, and sudden bursts of sunshine illuminating the landscape. Each moment was fleeting, a reminder that nature is both beautiful and untamed.

While the weather might have tested my resolve, it also gifted me with the kind of atmospheric photographs that tell a story. A wind-swept cliff under a stormy sky, the waves crashing below, the feeling of isolation yet awe—these moments are what I strive to capture. The unpredictable weather of Orkney became an integral part of my photographic journey, shaping my perception of this extraordinary place.

The Spectacular Coastline…

The coastline of Orkney is nothing short of spectacular. I ventured to the famous Yesnaby cliffs, where the dramatic rock formations meet the roaring Atlantic. The sound of the waves crashing against the stones was invigorating. I spent hours wandering the edges, camera in hand, trying to encapsulate the raw beauty of this wild landscape. The cliffs stood tall, their layers telling stories of ancient geological formations and the relentless forces of nature.

The coastal paths were lined with  wildflowers, and the sight of seabirds soaring above was a reminder of the island’s rich wildlife. I was particularly enchanted by the interplay of light and shadow on the water, the way the sun would glint off the waves, creating a shimmering effect that felt almost ethereal. Each click of the shutter was a step deeper into the soul of Orkney, capturing not just its beauty but its spirit.

A Dive into History and Culture…

Orkney is steeped in history, with remnants of ancient civilizations at every turn. I visited the Neolithic sites, including The Broch of Gurness, an ancient village home to a thriving Iron-Age community that dates back over 2,000 years. Walking through these ancient structures, I was struck by the ingenuity of the people who once inhabited this land. It felt as though time stood still, and I could almost hear their stories echoing through the stones.

The cultural richness of Orkney also comes alive through its music and art. Walking through the streets of Stromness or eating lunch at the Sheila Fleet Kirk Gallery & Cafe. A Chorizo pasta followed by a trip upstairs to their wonderfully crafted local jewellery and wool was a welcome break from the elements outside.

The warmth of the locals extended beyond hospitality; it was in their stories, their laughter, and their willingness to share a piece of their lives with me.

A Memorable Visit to Westray…

One of the highlights of my trip was my visit to Westray, a gem in the Orkney Isles. The island’s dramatic landscapes and welcoming atmosphere captured my heart. I spent the day exploring its rugged cliffs and serene beaches, finding hidden coves where I could set up my camera and let nature speak.

Westray is known for its vibrant birdlife, although my visit in October meant that I was out of season for their most famous visitor…the puffin. Watching these charming creatures dive and play is a joy I have already pencilled in for my return in the summer. The island’s community was equally enchanting; I felt at home among the locals who radiated friendliness and an openness so very seldom seen in today’s modern world.

The Heart of Orkney: The People…

While the landscapes of Orkney are undeniably breathtaking, my most cherished memories come from the connections I made with its people. The friendliness and openness of the locals created an atmosphere that felt like a warm embrace. I found that it was the people who truly defined my experience.

I found myself wanting to add depth to my understanding of the islands. I wanted to learn more about their traditions, their struggles, and their joys, so that future visits will enrich my photographs with a deeper narrative. I believe that the spirit of a place is often reflected in its people, and Orkney is a shining example of this truth. The locals are not just inhabitants; they are stewards of their culture and history, and their warmth is a testament to the resilient spirit of these islands.

Looking Ahead…

As I left Orkney, I felt a sense of fulfillment mixed with longing. The beauty I encountered through my camera was matched only by the connections I made with the people. I am eager to return, to delve deeper into this enchanting land and perhaps organise a photography workshop that will allow others to experience the magic of Orkney.

With the legacy of a sophisticated Neolithic people, a cultured Norse society, and a role in both World Wars, this archipelago off the north of Scotland would surely be one of Europe’s foremost historical tourist destinations were it easier to get to.

These islands have been inhabited for over 8,500 years, they have no history of clans or tartan and so do not feel a part of the Scottish Highlands or indeed for the most part do not feel a part of Scotland.

My first visit has left an indelible mark on my heart. I look forward to capturing more of its beauty and sharing it with those who appreciate the art of photography. Until my next adventure, Orkney will remain a beacon of inspiration, a reminder of the power of place, and above all, the warmth of its people.

Share this article

Come learn photography with me

Multi-day workshops

One Day workshops

Private Tours

Leave a Reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *